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Succulent Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Earns a Spot on the UNESCO Creative Cities List.

Biryani cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the vessel's cover securely closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".

The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.

"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Tender kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its incredibly tender kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city presents special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a special airy dessert, during winter months.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Iconic tea stall serving masala chai
A legendary tea stall is noted for its milky masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.

On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.

MP
The writer

Mary Perez

Milieu-expert en duurzaamheidsadviseur, schrijft over eco-vriendelijk wonen en groene technologie.

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