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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.